Bastide Towns of Lot et Garonne

Life was pretty rough in South-West France during the Middle-ages, especially during the Hundred Years War. In an effort to bring some stability to the area, 'new towns' were founded, planned and built, many in the 12th century. These towns were built around a strict grid layout, and usually fortified, and aimed to bring a bit of security to the inhabitants while also adding to the strength of the respective sides (English and French) in the region.

Some bastides had a more specific military purpose, and were built as a result of 'tensions' during the Hundred Years War. Hence many are found between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. Many changed hands between the English and French, some several times, during this period.

The layout of a typical bastide town includes a central square, several large streets running from the square to the edge of the town, and a grid pattern of narrow passages between these main streets. The central square historically had a sheltered hall in the middle for market days, and a series of arched passages around the edges.

The towns offered a degree of safety, tax concessions and exemptions from military service to their inhabitants, and a small plot of land on which inhabitants could build a house.

The churches in bastide towns were often used for defensive purposes, and designed and built with that in mind.

Of course, some 700 years or so later, these towns preserve their original form to varying degrees. Some have become sprawling large towns, others have largely disappeared, but the area has a significant number of towns  that have passed the centuries largely intact.

Villereal

The most remarkable feature of Villereal is its intact 14th century market hall dominating almost all of the central square - and still used for markets today (Saturdays). Villereal is a lively small town, with a myriad of back streets to explore. Certainly the least commercialised  town among those listed here, and probably the most lively outside the May - September holiday season.

Villereal was founded in 1269 by Alphonse de Poitiers, in an effort to keep the English at bay. This didn't work and the English occupied the town during the Hundred Years War.

Villereal is found in the northern part of the Lot-et-Garonne department.

Monpazier

Monpazier is an amazing town, with its medieval centre preserved almost completely intact. The arcades and the market hall are still there, there are no cars in the centre, and there is very little to break the illusion that you have stepped back 600 years in time. Unmissable if you are in the region. The town is quiet outside the holiday season. Monpazier is listed as 'one of the most beautiful villages in France'.

Monpazier was founded in 1284 by Edward 1 of England. Then, in 1594 and 1637 the town was the centre of peasant insurgence, triggered by the terrible conditions following the end of the Wars of Religion. On both occasions the rebellions were violently suppressed.

Monpazier is found in the southern part of the Dordogne department, approximately 16 kilometres north-east of Villereal.

Monflanquin

Monflanquin is similar in style to Monpazier, although it loses a few points by no longer having its central market hall. Happily it regains them by being on top of a hill with splendid views over the surrounding countryside, and by being slightly less touristy. Monflanquin is on quite a steep hill, which further adds to its charm. Like Monpazier to the north, Monflanquin is listed as 'one of the most beautiful villages in France'

If you have time, it is well worth driving a few miles south of Monflanquin on the Villeneuve-sur-Lot road simply to turn around and drive back again - the view of the town, with its ancient houses spreading down the hill, always seems to catch the sun and is one of the great views of the area.

Monflanquin was founded in 1256 by Alphonse de Poitiers.

 

Domme

A little larger than most of the other bastide towns, Domme is perched high above the Dordogne River and has wonderful views of the river and countryside. Unusually among the bastide towns, it retains a significant part of its fortified walls, and the gateways into the town. Perhaps the overly perfect restoration and over-commercialisation of the town reduces the feeling of authenticity that is found in, say, Monpazier. However a visit remains a 'must' when you visit the region. There are some very good caves accessed from in the centre of the town. Listed as 'one of the most beautiful villages in France'