Charente Maritime by Janet Meredith

The official symbol of this beautiful department of the Charente Maritime is that of a blue bird and a green bird, representing the total fusion of land and sea, gently lapped by the Atlantic Ocean. In fact there are over 420 kms of beautiful beaches, many of them holding the coveted blue flag.

 

In 1790, the two old areas of Aunis and Saintonge were combined to form the Charente Maritime, the main towns being La Rochelle in the north, and Saintes in the south. The Charente Maritime boasts the second longest hours of annual sunlight after the Côte d’Azur; French tourists began coming to this area because of this, together with the beauty of the scenery, the quality of light, the mild, temperate climate and the long, varied coastline. The towns and villages are steeped in history, from prehistoric sites to Gallo - Roman finds and a wealth of Romanesque churches and Gothic architecture.

 

To the north, Aunis is an area rich in contrasts. Blue like the ocean and the waters of its canals, salt marshes, and the islands of Ré, Madame, Oléron and Aix (where Napoleon had Fort Boyard built to protect the harbour). Green like the forests, prairie grasses and fertile fields, dotted with whitewashed little villages around Marennes, famous for its oysters. To the south is the area of Saintonge, where towns such as Saintes, Archiac and Jonzac are surrounded by gently undulating vineyards and sunflowers. In Roman times the ancient port of “Fannum Tamnum”, now Le Fâ, was the only harbour on the Gironde coast before Blaye and Bordeaux. Around it, on the slopes of the surrounding hillsides, was a vast town with baths, temple, theatre, houses and farms. The site is currently being excavated and visits are possible.

Nearby, the historic monument of Talmont–sur–Gironde is a typical example of a coastal village, with its low-roofed, Roman tiled, limewashed cottages, its narrow streets lined with hollyhocks, its alleyways, wells, not to mention its restaurants and shops. At the northern end of the village, on the edge of a sheer cliff, is the church of St Radegonde, which was a refuge for pilgrims who used to stop on their way to Santiago de la Compostella.

From Talmont to the headland at La Coubre is the aptly named “Coast of Beauty”. There are troglodyte caves to be visited, and the shoreline has a profusion of rock roses, spurge flax, poets' cassa and arbutus from the Mediterranean, which mingle with indigenous trees and shrubs. The beautiful seaside town of Royan was totally re-built after being destroyed by allied bombing in World War 2. You can sit and have a coffee (or something stronger), overlooking the harbour and watching the yachts coming and going, or maybe pop into a boutique or two. You could follow the "chemin douanier" ( customs path), which follows the shore from the port up to the Grande-Côte and passes through Vaux-sur-Mer and St-Palais-sur-Mer. There are many fine sandy beaches here and some superb bays.

The Haute–Saintonge is the southern part of the Charente Maritime, bounded by the Dordogne, Charente and Gironde. This region glows with southern light and warmth, and has its own special ambiance. This is the area of Cognac production and also the lesser known aperitif, Pineau. In 1689 a winegrower at Burie, in the Charente Maritime, poured some grape juice into a barrel that he thought to be empty. It had some Cognac in the bottom of the barrel, the fusion of the two was fabulous and the rest, as they say, is history!

In this region are some of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture (ask at the local tourist office for the leaflet called “Promenades Romanes”). The fabulous buildings are lavishly ornamented with finely carved gargoyles, capitals, painted friezes, frescoes and even graffiti. This rich architectural heritage is obvious in the windmills, dovecotes, covered markets, typical long stone farmhouses, and square farmhouses with courtyards, smaller manor houses and castles.

You can find the traditional square fishing nets known as “carrelet” strung out along the Gironde Estuary, and even though many were destroyed in the terrible storm of Christmas 1999, they are being proudly rebuilt. Here too, you can find numerous small ports such as Mortagne-sur-Gironde and Port Maubert, where you can take a stroll around the boats (Port Maubert has a few of the old fashioned “yole” or traditional fishing boats), have a picnic or feast in one of the waterside restaurants.

Some of the local specialities include:

• Melon au Pineau
• Tarte Charentaise aux fruits de mer
• Oysters
• Mussels
• Grillon Charentais (eaten on slivers of toast)

 

BIRDWATCHING

The Charente Maritime is a haven for birds and birdwatchers, with its wide variety of shore birds and herons, and even rarer species. There are several nature reserves in the Charente Maritime. One of them, on the island of Ré, is home to the bright shelduck, the western marsh harrier and the European spoonbill, to name but a few. Another reserve is an area of marshland opposite the island of Oléron which is a good site for observing waders, ducks and shorebirds. It is also the second most important winter stop in France (after Mont St Michel) for migrating birds. It is possible to see the white stork here, and in summer the hobby and short-toed eagle. There are many other reserves such as Fouras (marsh harriers), Rochefort and Vitrezay. In summer, look out for egrets ducking and diving, purple herons, grey herons, the rare garganey, widgeons, little ringed plovers and pintail ducks.

 

FISHING

The natural beaches fringed with pine forests, rocky coastline and coves make this an excellent area for those who enjoy fishing in a wild, natural setting. It is possible to catch bass, sea bream, conger eel, meagre and flatfish. The calm, deep rivers provide a home for whitefish, and the canals are full of eels and crayfish. For carp and game fish, try the Charente, Sevre Niortaise, Seugne and lower Boutonne rivers. In spring, the chad and mullet arrive.

 

SAILING

From beginners to experts in the Charente Maritime you can experience cruising, sailing, surfing, barging and kite surfing. Ask for the blue-green guide at tourist information offices.

GOLF

“Golf de la Prée” (18 holes)……near La Rochelle. This is a typical Scottish link with numerous bunkers, 5 holes on the coast and views over the Bay of Aiguillon and the Ile de Ré.

“Golf de Maine Gaudin” (18 holes)……near Royan. This course is nestled in the forest of Coubre, and stretches out amongst the pines. After playing the 14th hole, you get a fabulous view towards Cordouan lighthouse.

“Louis Rouyer Guillet” (18 holes)…….near Saintes. This links is suitable for all abilities, with its wide variety of features including some technical challenges. The clubhouse has a friendly atmosphere and good food.

There are also some 9 hole courses:

• Golf d’Oléron • Golf de Trousse- Chemise (Les portes –en- Ré)
• Golf de la Jarne
• Golf de Saint- Laurent-de-la-prée
• plus the 6 hole fun course at Montendre.

(See our other article about Charente Maritime and La Rochelle HERE)

 

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