Farne islands by Gaby Kienapfel

For a truly memorable day out in Northumberland, visit the old fishing harbour of Seahouses and take a boat trip to the Farne Islands. Once a place of pilgrimage for medieval monks, the Farne Islands are now a sought after destination for nature lovers world-wide. The cliffs and grassy tops come alive with seabirds in the breeding season between May and July.

Seahouses is reached via a maze of small, winding country lanes after leaving the A1 north of Alnwick. The Farne Islands lie just off the coast, midway between Seahouses and Bamburgh. Comprising between 15 and 28 islands, the number to be seen depends very much upon the state of the tide. The Farnes are divided into three main groups: Outer Farnes including Staple and Longstone Islands and the Inner Farnes closest to the mainland. You can simply take a trip around the islands, or choose to land on one or both of the bird sancturies of Inner Farne and Staple Island, or at the lighthouse on Longstone Island.

Boat companies can be found at Seahouses harbour. They offer regular daily sailings from April to September, but if you have a specific trip in mind it may be advisable to enquire about the relevant schedule before you set out. I personally favour a leisurely start, and drive in the morning through the Northumberland countryside to Seahouses, then find and book a boat to Inner Farne. You get to see all the islands on this trip.

As one of Europe's most important seabird sanctuaries, the islands are home to more than 20 different species. Many come to the offshore islands throughout the summer to breed, before departing to their various winter homes. The puffin, guillemot, shag and kittiwake winter out at sea, while the sandwich, arctic and common terns head for Africa.
 

Some of the sea birds you are guaranteed to find are my favourites, the remarkable Terns, mostly found on Inner Farne. Each species has its favourite nesting area. The Arctic terns seem to be oblivious to the hoards of human visitors, and nest on paths and the courtyard around St Cuthberts Chapel and the information centre. Take a hat to avoid getting pecked on the head by parents, defending their eggs and chicks. I knew a (balding) man who had ..... ouch!

You will see puffins on Inner Farne and Staple Island. Puffins, with over 55,000 pairs, are the most numerous breeding seabirds on the Farnes. They dig burrows in the soil where they lay their eggs. Guillemots, over 46,000 of them, are, like puffins, members of the Auk family. They nest in large colonies on the rocky cliff tops. Kittiwakes nest on tiny ledges on the cliff face. You can get within metres of them if you are not afraid of heights, and watch their amazing air traffic control and landing skills!

There is also a large colony of seals, to which the boats get quite close.

The Farnes are the place where Grace Darling, the daughter of the Longstone lighthouse keeper, rescued nine people off a steamship that was swept onto rocks in a severe storm on the night of 7th September, 1838. When you are chugging around the islands on a summer’s day you really do get a feeling for the bravery she and her father showed in rowing a boat through the screaming wind and lashing rain to reach the stricken Forfarshire. A museum in Bamburgh commemorates the tale of that wild evening. The waters remain treacherous to modern day shipping. The lighthouse on Longstone Island today is reckoned to have the most powerful light in Europe.

On your return to the quaint harbour of Seehouses, you can stroll through the old fishermen’s quarter, now largely holiday homes. You can still find a working smokehouse, tucked away above the harbour, which sells fish products to the public. There are two rather unremarkable but cosy pubs, mainly frequented by locals, offering only keg beers, or the Olde Ship with a heavy nautical theme, which offers a friendly atmosphere, a good range of well kept real ales and pub food. Unfortunately, during the summer, especially at weekends, it tends to get very busy. There is also a range of restaurants catering for families with children and the usual “tack”, (albeit on a small scale) associated with many British seaside resorts.
 

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