Alps

HAUTE ALPES by Helen Beaumont

The Haute-Alpes is a region of dramatic peaks, high mountain passes, waterfalls, glaciers, and rushing rivers.

Situated to the south of the Alpine range, it is bordered by Italy to the East, the Rhone Valley to the west, and Provence to the south, and contains two of France’s national parks, the Ecrins, and the Queyras.

It is famous for both skiing and mountaineering, and is home to some of the highest routes of the Tour de France which regularly visits the area, the most well-known being the Cols du Lauteret and Galibier.

Places to visit

Places to visit include the walled town of Briancon, with its military buildings designd by the architect Vauban - there are guided tours during the Summer and Winter seasons in French, English and Italian; details can be obtained from the Tourist office. It is also famous for its sundials on the walls of many of the houses and buildings. Some of Briancon's restaurants offer a ‘Menu Vauban’, with 17th century food served by waiters in 17th century costume.

Why not take a trip to the mountaineering resort of Vallouise, or the glacier of la Meije/La Grave? There are also the skiing resorts of Serre Chevalier, Puy-St-Vincent, and Montgenevre, all as busy in mid-Summer as in the middle of Winter, with rafting, kayaking, walking and mountain-biking among the activities to choose from. The local rivers offer some challenging white water, and the pistes become downhill mountain bike courses.

For those wanting more gentle pursuits, the chairlifts and cablecars are open and you can go up, enjoy a meal at a mountain restaurant, and take in the views before descending on the lift again. There is a golf course at nearby Montgenevre. Monetier-les-Bains has a thermal spa (book in high season), which opens until late in the evening.

Sailing and other watersports can be enjoyed at Barrage de Serre Ponçon, near Embrun.

You can enjoy the alpine flowers in the meadows, and cycle along the valleys next to the rivers and streams, through pretty villages and shady woodlands. There are marmottes, chamois, and even golden eagles.

Winter Activities

In Winter, the area is busy with skiers and snowboarders all enjoying the snow, and has many resorts, large and small. It also has several cross-country skiing areas.

The largest resort is Serre Chevalier, which consists of 13 separate villages, all linked across the mountain by lifts and pistes. There are 250kms of pistes to enjoy, from Monetier-les-Bains, a traditional village at the bottom of the Col du Lauteret, to Briancon, the large town at the end of the valley. All levels of skier are catered for: beginners have several nursery areas in each village, and experts have many off-piste opportunities.

Other resorts in the area include Puy St Vincent, and Montgenevre, part of the Milky Way ski area, which includes the Olympic resorts of Sestriere and Sauze d’Oulx. The off-piste resort of La Grave lies at the other side of the Col de Lauteret, and a guide can be hired in the village.

Non-skiers can relax in the thermal baths at Monetier-les-Bains, take a tour of 17th century Briançon, or join a snowshoe walk. They can also buy a pedestrian pass for some of the mountain lifts, and meet friends and family for a nice lunch on the mountain.

Regional specialities include tourton, a small pastry with a savoury filling, usually served as part of a large salad with mountain ham, and donkeys ears (oreilles d’ânes), pancakes layered with spinach and cheese. The more usual fondues and raclette are also to be enjoyed. After skiing, soothe the aches and pains away in the thermal baths, or enjoy a genepy or vin chaud in one of the local bars. Many of the resorts also have a cinema, and some English language films are shown.

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