Ljubljana

 

It doesn't take long to get to know Ljubljana - nowhere is more than 20 minutes' walk away in a pocket-size centre that shoehorns a city's architectural diversity into a handful of streets and squares. The banks of the slender River Ljubljanica are packed with animated pavement cafés, their tables spilling into courtyards and down the beautiful cobbled streets of the Old Town. There's music everywhere, ranging from busking accordionists to chamber groups in this culture-rich capital. High above, on its steep, thickly wooded hill, stands the Ljubljana Castle, pictured, immaculate and whitewashed, at night-time dramatically lit. From the top of the clocktower view the panorama of its jagged ring of snow-capped peaks.

 

Things to See and Do:

travelling is simplest on foot or jump on a bike provided by the city tourist board.

 

* Visit Presernov Square (seen here on New Year's Eve) with its mixture of baroque and art-nouveau buildings, and cross the picturesque Triple Bridge, one of many of famous architect Plecnik's inter-war works, to explore the lively market and its all-organic produce.
 

* After admiring the modern bronze doors of St Nicholas Cathedral, stroll along the cobbled streets of the Old Town which curl round the base of Castle Hill, lined by fine baroque houses and home to smart fashion boutiques and crafts ateliers.

* A short walk beside the river brings you to the market gardens of the village-like Krakovo district. Pictured is an aerial view of the city centre along the river banks.
 

* Over the bridge is romantic, student-filled Trnovo, where Plecnik's House (Karunova ulica 4) paints a sympathetic portrait of a modest visionary.

* Continue to the south gate of the Roman Emona, visit Jakopicev vrt and return to the city centre to walk through the Roman Jupiter capitol.

* Take an evening boat trip. Seen from the water here is the Triple Bridge.
 

* Pause in front of the 250-year-old twin-spired Trnovo church of St. John, with relief sculptures of famous Slovenes on the front facade. Enter and admire the mixture of Plecnik's works and those of contemporary artists.

* Walk over Plecnik's bridge, uniquely lined with birch trees, and admire St.John's statue, plus the portraits of 4 famous Slovene impressionists just above the Gradascica bank.

 

* Visit Ljubljana's largest and most beautiful park, Tivoli Park, and its mansion, pictured here.
 

* Treat yourselves to a night at the Opera House, where £20 buys you a seat in the stalls or a box.

* For morning coffee and summer sundowners, join the posers and people watchers along the Ljubljanica. Macek on Krojaska is the grandstand seat for this fun activity if you can grab a table, while Makalonca, opposite, has a handful of candlelit tables just above the water.

* For a splurge, there's Spajza, uphill on Gornji trg, romantic and snug, furnished with homely antiques, but with a menu of Slovenian-international fusion cuisine and a great wine list.

 

Though there's now an atmosphere of cosmopolitan cool, the pleasures of Ljubljana are small ones, low-key and relaxed; its air of freshness and innocence (it's almost litter- and crime- free) makes such delights all the more rewarding. We don't even have swear words in our language, we have to borrow foreign ones: 'may you get kicked by a hen' is as bad as it gets! This is a capital city where everyone has time to stop and gossip. Come and sample the magic.

 

Photographs courtesy of Ljubljana Tourist Board.

 

 

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